August 24, 1986

The West Sister (or Maiden depending on who you ask) from the East Sister.

“We got up when the sun hit our tent about 10 am or so. We had a quick 2 oatmeals [sic] with blueberries (I’m the official blueberry picker). We went off up the valley about 11am. The vistas as we traveled on became better and better. On the south side Uli Bia: a tower of granite, Max Headroom: a gargoyle and [Wickmann’s] Tower [to the west] ever growing. We were in cruise speed. Soon we were in a talus field. Dave spotted 6 mountain goats as they warily avoided us. This was the quietest hiking we had done.

…The Sisters loomed above. We stopped at the top of some slabs and had our rations of cheese and crackers w/M&Ms and Tang. In the notch we found we could 3rd class (or 4th) either Sister, so Dave and I moved out on the [west] face for a 5th class climb. The rock and protection was excellent.”

“The sun set on our face so I climbed in miller’s mitts. We did a leapfrog so I did the 2nd pitch. The summit was awe inspiring – possibly one of the grandest views I have ever seen. Wickman’s [sic] now resembled some unclimbable himalayan pk with it’s huge icecycle [sic]”

“Dave has become ‘Bwana’ and Craig ‘The Lumberjack’ and of course me ‘Dr. Science.’ Craig is also ‘Senior Sinchilla.'”

“Dave and I rappelled down and free climbed. I picked up my boots [I had on Firé climbing shoes] and other gear and we 3rd-classed the [east] Sister. I should have gotten out of my rock shoes because of the snow… The summit on the [east] Sister was small and the drop down on the NW side was awesome… Craig was under controlled terror…

I think Craig’s terror was only partly an act. He had been clinging to the rock with both hands like the mountain was going to buck him off like some hapless rodeo contestant, so when I took the following picture, I told him he had to let go. He very slowly let go:

Here’s Craig’s account: “The unforgettable trek to Twin Sisters peaks and the climb to the top!  That was incredible. It was on that climb to the top of Twin Sisters that I realized how great Ritz crackers are with a slice of cheese!  THAT is great stuff! Also — my butt was hanging over the side of that peak!” Love the Ritz Revelation!

“I changed into my boots and gaiters and the descent was easier. Going down the talus around 10pm was physically demanding… Down near the creek we got punchy. I ‘swam’ to the blueberries during a rest. We took to boulder hopping instead of bush wacking the alders. The light started to go and the rock got icy. “

From Craig’s memory: “Hiking back to camp from Twin Sisters, we did a lot of rock hopping in the stream, but I recall we stopped for a break at one time and we each pulled out our books and read on a rock in the middle of that stream (or at least I did).  What a great place to read a book, in the middle of the stream, in that valley, with Wickman’s Tower reigning at the top of the valley. Very cool! “

“When we came to the sulfur smell… [we found] the Alaskans had joined us! It was a noisy, happy reunion. They had gotten blown off the grand traverse. Hacked around the Arrigetch upper and base camps and headed over our pass to get here. …and they had extra food!“

The Alaskans had seen a black bear near base camp over by Arrigetch Creek.

“We immediately hit the hot tub. At midnight we watched the aurora from the pool. The [Third quarter] moon rose and it was a beautiful eve. Darker and more stars than ever. Dinner was a big affair with lots to catch up on. The hot springs made us all relaxed and slo-mo. When I got cool, I left the smoky fire and went to bed. I was beckoned out by Dave for a big aurora display dancing overhead. Went to bed after 2am ”

Arrigetch