Cirque Peak – Mountain Goat!

Dab me up, Mr. Smith! Here is the latest W6 Mountain Goat to join the herd. Mt. Langley in the background. Photo by Bill Smith.

25 SEPTEMBER 2023 W6/SS-085

Three stars – Highly recommended.
Elevation:12,900′
Route: Trail and Cross country
Hike Distance: 20 miles round trip
Elevation Gain: 2,875′
Navigation: Easy
Steepness: Moderate
Vehicle: Passenger car
Road: Paved road
Cell Coverage: None
Hike basics

The odyssey that was our trip to Cirque Peak was much like my quest for SOTA Mountain Goat in general: breathtakingly beautiful and oddly fluky, exhausting and invigorating, full of ups and downs and twists and turns.

Back in August of 1974 and fresh out of high school my friends Allan Gardner, Jon Fredland and I drove up the perilous Cottonwood Lakes Road late one Friday night after work in Los Angeles. We backpacked to Long Lake on Saturday, and then on Sunday climbed both Cirque and Langley, walked out and drove back to the LA area to be back on the job Monday morning.

This time I met another old climbing buddy from back in the day, Bill Smith and his friend Al Martinsen at the Cottonwood Lakes walk-in campground. Bill’s son Andrew had gotten a notion to climb all the 14,000′ peaks in California and wanted to start with Mount Langley. Since Bill doesn’t get to see Andrew much these days because he is busy teaching, he planned this trip since our scheme to do the John Muir Trail had to be postponed because of all the snow in the high passes so late in this unusual year.

We had a tremendous evening around the campfire with Andrew holding court and regaling us with hilarious stories about the antics his students in a middle school near Sacramento. The kids are very lucky to have him.

Unfortunately Andrew was still suffering the effects of a wisdom tooth extraction. His dentist had suggested he not travel above 5,000′ – much less 14,000.’ Discretion being the better part of valor, Andrew made the hard call and bagged it. Bill was proud of him.

So it was only the three of us the next day that started out – Bill, Al and I. I got up before dawn and drove nine miles back down Cottonwood Lakes Road to catch this astounding view of Owens Lake at sunrise:

When I first came up 395 with my family in the early 1960’s Owens Lake was completely dry. This year’s massive snowpack and then Tropical Storm Hilary have revitalized this lake.

The six mile backpack from the Cottonwood Lakes Trailhead to Long Lake goes up a modest 1,500 feet or so. We managed to snag the exact same campsite at Long Lake that I had stayed at 50 years ago! While it was pretty cold at night – there was ice along the stream in the morning – there were no mosquitos and the daytime temperatures were damn near perfect for hiking.

Bill and Al in our camp at Long Lake on the dawn of the day of our ascent. That is Cirque Peak in the background.

The trail up to New Army pass is similarly gentle grade. The route to Cirque leaves the trail at that point and follows the namesake cirque around to the summit over boulders of various sizes. Traveling over and around these boulders varies from very easy to maddeningly more difficult than I remembered from 50 years ago. This is where we ran into a bit of trouble.

As we approached the summit Bill and I found ourselves amidst some large boulders and suggested to Al the he might have an easier time contouring around lower to the south. When Bill and I emerged over the top of this boulder field we no longer could see Al, so we began to call out to him. No reply.

We called and called, still no reply. I began to get worried, imagining all kinds of terrible fates that might’ve befallen Big Al. The wind was blowing fairly briskly and the lower contour had enough of a drop off that our voices might be going over Al’s head. Bill and I are big guys with big voices so we decided to yell out in unison.

Finally we spotted Al and saw that he was well below us. We got his attention (whew!) and at that point Bill decided to go back down with Al. They were done. Bill said he knew I was experienced enough to be able to solo down. Like me, he had done Cirque and Langley as a teenager and had no problem turning around so close to the summit.

Here is a screenshot of my track up (red) and track down (green). Where they diverge near the summit is where we avoided the boulder field and the going was much easier. The red arrow points to where we spotted Al and got his attention after he contoured too low around the boulders.

Here is my track down. It is probably an easier route than the one we took up.

I continued on the short distance to the summit an arrived shortly after 2 PM – much later than I expected. This might’ve been a blessing in disguise as both Lorene W6LOR and Jon NT6E told me there had been a solar storm that had made 20m and 40m pretty miserable earlier.

Some people call it “activating a SOTA summit.” I like to call it “What Did I Forget This Time?” 🙂 In this case I had left my nice SOTABeams carbon fiber mast back at Whitedog, so I had to MacGiver my trekking poles into a makeshift mast.

This makeshit mast wasn’t pretty but it got the wire off the ground anyway.

I started out on 20m and quickly got Darryl WW7D and Josh WU7H up in Washington, but my reports from those guys were poor. I was surprisingly hoarse from all the yelling I had done earlier. Next I was called by super chaser Chris F4WBN, but he could barely hear me and gave me an uncharacteristic 41.

After those three – nada on 20m. I started to wonder if Goat was not to be on this quirky day.

I switched to 15m and Chris came back with a better report: 52. I don’t know if that counted for Goat being the same station, albeit on a different band.

It all became moot when the surprising next call came immediately on the heels of Chris’ call: LW2DO Horacio in Argentina! Wow! Five QSOs on three continents! I was ecstatic! I had joined the Herd!

After that the bands improved and the calls came easily. I wanted to stay and enjoy the opening and get as many of my SOTA friends in my Goat Log as I could, but I gave myself a 3pm cutoff. I did hold out until I got my #1 chaser, Jon – the former K6LDQ and current NT6E – on his astounding 163 chase on my 211 activations.

THANK YOU EACH AND EVERY CHASER FOR MAKING ME A SOTA MOUNTAIN GOAT! I could not have done it without you.

The Station
That’s Long Lake – base camp – just off the summit block.
“Big Al” Martinsen and Bill “Charles Atlas” Smith in New Army Pass on the way up with Mount Langley in the background..
Here’s an angle on the tallest mountain in the lower 48, Mount Whitney, that most people don’t get to see.
Looking northeast out over the Cottonwood Lakes
The Kaweahs up to the northwest were swallowed by smoke from a distant fire.

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Mountain Home Peak

A cloud dance in front of San Bernardino Mt. morning after a very unusual winter-type storm in Southern California

3 SEPTEMBER 2023 W6/CT-090

Two Stars – a nice summit. I’d do it again. Recommended.
Elevation:7,470′
Route: Cross country
Hike Distance: 1 mile round trip
Elevation Gain: 500′
Navigation: Easy
Steepness: Moderate to steep at the end
Vehicle: Passenger car with decent clearance
Road: Dirt road
Cell Coverage: Good (Verizon), excellent APRS
Hike basics

We’d had a very unusual winter-type storm the day before I set out to these two easy San Bernardino Peaks. The forest service road 1N12 was rutted from that and from Tropical Storm Hilary a few weeks earlier. Normally, I’d say that an unqualified passenger car could do this, but there were some ruts and rocks on the otherwise good road. Forest service road 1N12 leaves Highway 38 right behind the Post Office in Angeles Oaks.

From the saddle at 34° 7.4744′ N, 116° 59.9909′ W – follow the firebreak up to the south. This firebreak has been pitted with a lot of whoopde-dos to discourage the off-road crowd and this makes this steep firebreak a little tedious to hike.

I’m somewhat surprised that Mountain Home Peak isn’t a Hundred Peaks qualifier as it is over 5,000′

The clouds danced overhead as I made my contacts on this enjoyable morning.

Whitedog at the saddle.
The Station

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Constance Peak

Looking north along the route up Constance Peak.

3 SEPTEMBER 2023 W6/CT-076

One star – Nothing special but I’d do it again.
Elevation:6,631′
Route: Cross country
Hike Distance: 1.2 miles round trip
Elevation Gain: 400′
Navigation: Easy
Steepness: Moderate
Vehicle: Passenger car
Road: Good dirt road
Cell Coverage: Good Verizon
Hike basics

I first hiked this inauspicious HPS summit on March 22, 1997. It is a pleasant walk through the pines with a decent view on a clear day. It was cloudy on this day and the cumulus clouds did graceful dance around the summit. Thomas Hunting Grounds Road was in good shape with only one spot that I could easily drive around. This was after the freak tropical storm Hillary that dumped a record number of inches on southern California in late August. In 1997 I drove my Volvo sedan to the trailhead.

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Bertha Peak

David N6AN enjoying a lovely view of Big Bear Lake and the San Bernardino Peak Ridge to the south.

17 JUNE 2023 W6/CT-054

Two Stars – a nice summit. I’d do it again. Recommended.
Elevation:7,470′
Route: Cross country
Hike Distance: 1 mile round trip
Elevation Gain: 520′
Navigation: Easy
Steepness: Moderate
Vehicle: Passenger car
Road: Dirt road
Cell Coverage: Excellent (Verizon), excellent APRS
Hike basics

The day before this trip I heard David N6AN on Cerro Negro Benchmark and I asked him if he wanted to join me on this little adventure. We had been up nearby Silver Peak a few weeks before and scoped out the approach road (Polique Canyon Road), so we knew it was open. David called me back and we were on.

I last hiked up this mountain in April of 1997 with my late great mountain climbing dog, Chauncey Gardener. I believe I did the northwest ridge from Forest Service Road 2N94Y that time. This time we took the more standard route up the access road to the repeater site on the summit.

This time we took our time on this pleasant walk and chatted about a wide variety of things. David is good company.

The summit had a lot of visitors this warm sunny Saturday. Maybe as many as 20 people or so at a given time. I handed out quite a few of my pre-printed SOTA cards to people who expressed an interest. Unfortunately I set up a little too close to David and we had to spread out a bit and get end-to-end to get David out of my near field.

The propagation spirits prevailed especially on 15m where I managed a QSO with Germany and Esther and Ian in Northern Ireland – GI0AZA and GI0AZB. It was all-in-all and very fun day out.

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Beacon Hill

Echinocereus coccineus – the stupendously cool named Scarlett Hedgehog on the summit of Beacon Hill

10 JUNE 2023 W7A/CS-038

Two Stars – a nice summit. I’d do it again. Recommended.
Elevation:7,470′
Route: Cross country
Hike Distance: 1 mile round trip
Elevation Gain: 520′
Navigation: Easy
Steepness: Moderate
Vehicle: Passenger car
Road: Dirt road
Cell Coverage: Excellent (Verizon), excellent APRS
Hike basics

I’d tried to do Beacon Hill earlier in the year but without snowshoes I found myself breaking through up to my hips and turned around after just a few hundred feet.

On this excursion I first did Summit Mountain and then drove back to do this one. Here is my drive route to the Beacon Hill trailhead

As I was getting ready to leave Whitedog the Tacoma, I discovered that my Garmin InReach Mini was missing! That meant I must’ve lost it somewhere on Summit Mountain. I decided to go ahead and climb Beacon and then backtrack and look for this expensive bit of kit.

The short hike on this one is fairly easy to navigate – just keep heading up. There was no snow this time, but the air was pretty smokey from prescribed burns in the area.

When I got to the summit I called Cassie KG6MZR back in New Mexico and in chatting with her I found out that she had received a cryptic text that read “Found road look tree.” I immediately knew someone had found my ImReach and had left me a waypoint to recover it! As Blanche Dubois said “Whoever you are – I have always depended on the kindness of strangers.” albeit with better results than perhaps poor Blanche.

Armed with this encouraging news, I made this activation rather brief compared to my usual style. Sorry if I missed any of my usual chasers. Here is the log:

To conclude the saga of my InReach: I followed the mysterious and kind stranger’s waypoint and found my InReach hanging from a tree beside the road where I gather it had fallen off this bumper of my car. Thank you, whoever you are!

Since I had to drive back to pick up the InReach, I decided to add a return trip to Bill Williams Mountain to the day’s SOTA activities. This serendipitous activation gave me my first 30 point day. Funny how things work out.

The station on a very pleasant summit.
Looking back toward Summit Mountain just left of center and Bill Williams on the right – two other 10-pointers done this day.

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Summit Mountain

Summit Mountain from the north across Barney Flat on the drive up.

10 JUNE 2023 W7A/CS-026

Two Stars – a nice summit. I’d do it again. Recommended.
Elevation:7,785′
Route: Very short cross country
Hike Distance: .2 miles round trip
Elevation Gain: 50′
Navigation: Easy
Steepness: Gentle
Vehicle: Passenger car
Road: Dirt road
Cell Coverage: Excellent (Verizon), excellent APRS
Hike basics

Driving back solo from Cassie KG6MZR’s place in New Mexico, I decided to do my usual layover in Flagstaff and do some new SOTA summits. I had my eye on Summit Mountain and Beacon Hill. Fate would lead me to include doing Bill Williams Mountain again, but more on that later.

Saturday dawned sunny, but smoky from prescribed burns all through the Coconino Plateau. The drive up to Summit Mountain is pretty easy to find and the road, while somewhat rocky and rutted is suitable for the adventurous in a passenger car.

The activation area is large however I opted to park Whitedog on a spur road and hike the 500 feet or so to the east side of the actual summit where I find a nice open area to set up.

I had fun activating with 2 summit-to-summit contacts and one park-to-park.

But on the way down, I inadvertently left my Garmin InReach on the bumper of Whitedog. You can find out what happened to this rather expensive bit of kit in the next post: Beacon Hill

The pleasant station location.
Looking east to the San Fransisco Peaks on a smokey day.
Bill Williams Mountain to the north from the activation zone.

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Capulin Mountain

Looking southeast from the rim of Capulin Volcano toward Sierra Grande.

4 JUNE 2023 W5N/SG-009

Three stars – Highly recommended.
Elevation:8,182′
Route: Paved trail
Hike Distance: 1 miles round trip
Elevation Gain: 300′
Navigation: Easy
Steepness: Gentle
Vehicle: Passenger car
Road: Paved
Cell Coverage: Excellent (Verizon), excellent APRS
Hike basics

Cassie KG6MZR and I spent the night in Raton after activating Maidenhead grid square DM86 or the north side of this volcano with a 100 watts digital station the day before. Heavy afternoon thundershowers made the decision to take shelter in a motel for the night seem pretty smart. Sunday dawned partially cloudy but it looked like the thundershowers would hold off until the afternoon again.

I’d never been in this part of New Mexico before. The border between the Rockies and the Great Plains makes for spectacular scenery. This hike is not a wilderness experience but is still highly recommended. There is a $20 per vehicle (4 people maximum) entrance fee for Capulin Volcano National Monument. The road to the volcano rim was down to one lane about half way up. I gather that they have been working on it from storm damage and it is sometimes completely closed, so call ahead to make sure it is open if you plan on driving up. There is no trail up from the base and cross country hiking is prohibited in the National Monument.

The paved loop trail around the the rim of the volcano is a very cool hike, but expect to be joined by many others. There are several benches in the activation zone to work from including one down the south side a bit if the summit is crowded. The rangers ask that you to stay on the paved path. I found an antenna could be rigged from there.

I kept my activation short but still managed two summit-to-summit contacts; one with SOTA pal David N6AN in Oregon and another with KT0A in South Dakota. I handed out a lot of my SOTA cards to interested hikers.

The station. Photo by KG6MZR
Looking south past a group of school kids on a tour of the Santa Fe Trail to Sierra Grande.
I believe this is a mushroom called Dead man’s Fingers on the trail up.
The volcanic rock makes for a fascinating ecosystem. Photo by KG6MZR.
Looking east toward the beginning of the vast expanse of the Great Plains.
Cassie KG6MZR starting out on the nice trail from the parking at the low point of the rim. This “spout” allowed the lava to spill out of the volcano and preserved the central crater.
Looking north.
Sporting my new raven hat Cassie bought me. Selfie by KG6MZR.

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North Guadalupe Mountain

Looking east from the summit over the town of Questa toward Red River and the Sangre de Christo Mountains.

27 MAY 2023 W5N/SS-036

Elevation:8,819′
Route: Trail and cross country
Hike Distance: 5 miles round trip
Elevation Gain: 1,000′
Navigation: Somewhat tricky coming down
Steepness: Moderate
Vehicle: Passenger car
Road: Short, good dirt road
Cell Coverage: Excellent (Verizon), excellent APRS
Hike basics

After activating W0C/RG-172 in southern Colorado I felt up for another mountain, so I set my sights on either North or South Guadalupe Mountain in northern New Mexico. Two mountains, two states in one day. After reading Alan NM5S’s excellent route description I decided on the north summit because it was a little closer and the afternoon cumulus were beginning to build.

As Alan mentions the trailhead is at 36° 43.8522′ N, 105° 36.3026′ W for the Las Vistas De Questa Trail . I left Whitedog at noon and started along the easement over Chevron Mining’s property that leads to the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument land.

The route leaves the trail at 36° 43.8247′ N, 105° 37.8473′ W and seems to follow barely discernible, ancient logging/woodcutting roadcuts. The cross country terrain is fairly open but the trees obscure a lot of landmarks so navigation is a bit tricky, especially on the return.

An old woodcutting/logging dump from the middle of last century,

A few drops fell and some distant thunder rumbled so I moved along as quickly as I could.

The summit is fairly wooded but found enough open space to set up my end fed random wire. The last entry into the register was over two years ago, so this isn’t an often-visited place.

I didn’t carry my table and chair on this one so I used a lichen covered rock in the shade under the trees.
North Guadalupe Mountain from the trailhead.
Looking south.
Looking north to Ute Mountain and the San Luis Valley through the trees.
I don’t know what these purple flowers are called.

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Summit 8,673′

Looking west past the summit cairn over the San Luis Valley to the San Juan Mountains.

27 MAY 2023 W0C/RG-172

Two Stars – a nice summit. I’d do it again. Recommended.
Elevation:8,673′
Route: Cross country
Hike Distance: 1 mile round trip
Elevation Gain: 400′
Navigation: Easy
Steepness: Moderate
Vehicle: High clearance suggested
Road: Good BLM dirt
Cell Coverage: Excellent (Verizon), excellent APRS
Hike basics

Last year’s first time activation of the Piñon Hills High Point prompted me to try this other nearby first timer. I really like this seldom-visited area. Expansive vistas of the San Luis Valley dotted with ancient volcanoes that formed the Taos Plateau are bordered on the east by the Sange de Christo Mountains and on the west by the San Juan Mountains. It is a beautiful area imbued with a peaceful solitude that suits me just fine.

The dirt road that leaves Colorado State Highway 142 is quite good. It’s the kind of road that I would do in a passenger car but the ruts and rocks made me glad to have Whitedog the Tacoma. Coming from the east, as I did this time, take a right at 142 at 37° 10.6106′ N, 105° 46.6673′ W. Coming from the west, as I did last year, the right is at 37° 10.5272′ N, 105° 51.6166′ W. There is a little spur road at 37° 9.4525′ N, 105° 48.6472′ W that gets you to within a half mile of the summit. Reminder: leave all gates as you find them – open or closed.

The hike is short and sweet with a brief moderately steep section that is easy to negotiate. I saw two separate heard of wild horses – one band was migrating through the pass between this summit and Flattop to the north – and one heard of elk springing along at a lope. There is a cairn on the summit but no other sign of humans.

Conditions weren’t great on HF but I did eke out a S2S with Kentucky. I kept it short because I had my eye on activating North Guadalupe in New Mexico on my way back.

Captions on the photos below to follow…

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Blue Mountain & Grid DN12

Maidenhead grid DN12 is very sparsely populated. Here is a lonely stretch Highway 95 looking south.

13 MAY 2023 W7O/SE-007

Two Stars – a nice summit. I’d do it again. Recommended.
Elevation:7,435′
Route: Drive up
Hike Distance: n/a
Elevation Gain: n/a
Navigation: Easy
Steepness: n/a
Vehicle: 4×4 high clearance suggested
Road: Steep dirt
Cell Coverage: Excellent (Verizon), No APRS
Hike basics

The main reason I selected this summit on my wanderings to New Mexico is that grid square DN12 is seldom activated – especially in the PSK31 mode. So I was looking for a drive-up that I might reasonably set up a 100 watt digital station and hand out as many endosements to the PODXS 070 club members as I could.

My original plans called for setting up a camp and spending the night, however after shattering a tent pole the night before on Winnemucca Mountain in high winds, I scratched that idea as the winds persisted and it looked like rain might move in. Apologies to the 070 folks who were unable to reach me on this one.

W7IMC suggested from his 2014 activation that 4 wheel drive was required. I found the route I took to be in reasonably good shape. It’s the kind of road I used to drive with my rear wheel drive passenger cars. I don’t suggest that, but — and this is a big but — if this road is not muddy, snowy or icy, it’s actually a pretty good road that accesses the communications facility. Just remember you are in the middle of nowhere, but with good cell coverage.

I did encounter a stretch of snow on a section with a bit of a drop off on the right. It took a few tries to safely pass by. the photo below is on the way down after it had melted quite a bit. There was also a stock tank crossing that was pretty muddy. I was glad to have Whitedog the 4×4.

The snow had melted off quite a bit by the time I went down.

The view at the top is spectacular. Steens Mountain (9,733′) dominates the northwest. The plains of Idaho go on seemingly forever to the entire east. The Oregon Canyon Mountains command the southwest. This is beautiful country in a very austere way.

Weather was perfect as I set up. Rick N7WE in Florida and Barry VA7GEM in British Columbia coordinated with the PODXS 070 Club as they did on my “GridPedition” to DM17 two years ago. Thanks guys! Strangely cell coverage was excellent but APRS was nonexistent.

As I worked the bands the wind began to pick up again and cumulus clouds started moving in from the east. I didn’t get to stay as long as I had hoped because I just didn’t want to risk driving down a muddy road. This turned out to be wise because it poured after I got back on pavement. I had 4 summit-to-summit contacts kicked off with my SOTA partner-in-crime David N6AN on Cerro Negro Benchmark back home in the Los Angeles Basin. Christian F4WBN in France got the DX award and I was very happy that Rick N7WE managed to pull me out of the waterfall gibberish. He was a respectable 459 on my end.

All in all this grid/SOTA activation was a blast! Thanks to all who participated. I heartily recommend getting out and doing whatever kind of activation you might be comfortable with.

Here is the previous day’s activation of Winnemucca Mountain and grid DN11

Here’s the station. To meet the SOTA requirement I carried all the gear to this spot and then drove Whitedog back for a wind/sun break.
Looking east into Idaho past the summit cairn.
Looking north
Looking northwst up to Steens Mountain
Looking southwest over Blue Mountain Draw to Oregon Creek Mountains
Clouds move in and the wind begins to blow.
Pano looking south showing the entire dirt road up.

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